Dear Frances,
Known for both creating minimalistic and redefined footwear, Dear Frances’s founder and creative director Jane Frances discusses her itch for design at a young age, being unapologetic when keeping things simple and why she is “no plain Jane.”
Ana Boots in Black Croc, $750
Worn by the likes of Margot Robbie, Gigi and Bella Hadid, Kendall and Kylie Jenner, Kaia Gerber, Hailey Beiber, Selena Gomez, Zoë Kravitz, Emma Roberts, Sienna Miller, and countless street style sirens, Dear Frances has established itself as more than a trendy label among influencers. Launched in 2014 – based in London and handmade in Italy – Dear Frances features modern minimalism, sleek textures, architectural silhouettes, and refined details. What seemed like an easy beginning, the idea for the label looked more of a 360-degree process. With an already accomplished background in branding, Frances decided to follow her passion and retrain herself in shoe design. “I moved to Italy and went to a small design school in Milan. At the end of my studies, my teacher introduced me to an artisan shoe factory just outside the city. When I graduated, I had the chance to intern there with their family and production team,” says Frances. Taking in the opportunity, Frances able to learn first-hand the age-old techniques of Italian shoe production from many experienced artisans in the country. It was through this process she refined her style and gravitated toward creating timeless pieces with refined and modern simplicity. While still living in Paris, Frances launched the brand and shortly moved to London thereafter. There is an Italian saying chi fa da sè fa per tre, meaning if you want something done, do it yourself. Dear Frances’s founder and creative director Jane Frances, she did exactly that. “I always wanted to start my label and had been interested in design from a young age,” says Frances. In her own words, she is “not a plain Jane.”
Tied to Jane Frances's namesake, Dear Frances was inspired by several things. Keeping Frances front and center – additionally, a play on words while living in Paris – the name reflects the start of a story, in the same sense that you would pen the start of a letter. Eventually, everything that followed became an evolution of this newfound journey. “More than ever, customers are interested in a brand’s backstory and ethos,” says Frances. Being digitally native, the team behind Dear Frances can continuously connect within their community. Noting her fortunate opportunities growing up in Australia, making a home in Italy, France, and the U.K., Frances praises the countless perspective living internationally has provided her. “We certainly have different best-sellers in different regions, particularly since it is always both Summer and Winter somewhere in the world. However, we find our timeless approach to design speaks to people from around the world,” she adds. That same approach has allowed her to express her creativity in a new light every time. “Inspiration can come from anywhere, but much of my research is immersed in architecture and furniture design. I enjoy many different styles of architecture, although I'm mainly drawn to modernist design and the principles of clean lines, space, and elemental materials. My inspiration for new heel structures and toe shapes often starts with furniture design – studying the curves, lines, and craftsmanship involved in anything from chairs to lamps, tables, etc,” says Frances.
Basket Sandal in Tan, $325
Chaise Mule in Black, $295
Sol Mule in Black, $350
Rain Sandal in Creme, $325
The Dear Frances woman is independent and self-confident, with an effortless and timeless sense of style. The Dear Frances woman has a modern, considered style and invests in quality, long-lasting pieces that form the cornerstone of a classic wardrobe. To Frances, fashion is an expression. Admiring working with color and textures, the founder has found new ways to blend unusual combinations. “There is nothing more satisfying to me than seeing materials working together to create something unique – whether that's in our work, in nature or other art forms. I have always been drawn to design and the work and detail that goes into making beautiful products, rather than the industry itself,” says Frances. That same fascination has found its way into discovering materials, lines, and proportions. Each element blending seamlessly within the label’s footwear designs, Dear Frances’s footwear has become a very structured part of today’s fashion. The footwear niche is not like others in the fashion industry. They are not like other garments or pieces of art, rather – as told by Frances, “Have a very specific purpose and function, which must be designed within technical constraints. I like working in this way. I love pushing the boundaries of shape and design, while also considering the practicality of each pair we make. I am always asking myself, ‘what is the purpose of this design? Where will our customers wear it? For how long? And how can we make this the most comfortable journey for them every time.’” Her love of tonal colors, fine lines, and unique texture combinations have made for a particular application in fashion drawing to more uncomplicated, quiet luxury. To Frances, that is how it always has been. “Our approach focuses on the quality of materials, keeping things simple, paring back the fuss and focusing on detail, texture, and tone. Whilst I adore shoes and this is our current focus, we have always taken a wider visual approach which I feel lends Dear Frances to explore other categories in the future, when the time is right,” she says. Dear Frances brand minimally provides luxury and timelessness. The same goes for the creative director’s design process. She never strives for perfection. In a new era of fast fashion and the desire of appearing “perfect,” Dear Frances’s ethics focuses on instructing women on the importance of quality over quantity when it comes to today’s minimalism. To Frances, perfection is subjective. “We can learn from years of fast fashion, however, it creates a never-ending pressure to keep-up and consumes products at a rate that is not sustainable. There is something very calming about stepping back from this cycle of consumption. Investing in quality classics that are designed to last – pieces that will form the building blocks of a minimalist wardrobe. Therefore, buying less is an empowering and highly satisfying choice that we can all make,” says Frances.
Focusing on craftsmanship to “slow down the fashion cycle,” Frances initial reaction from the beginning was defining the essence of a sustainable approach. With a heightened desire to slow fashion down, Frances and her team drew upon investment pieces that could be worn time and time again, season after season. “We strongly believe in reverting to quality, long-lasting styles, with ethical material choices. I think there is something to be said for having a classic wardrobe that's edited just right, so you always know what to reach for each day. Our factory and suppliers share the same beliefs and ethos that we do,” says Frances. Working with a 4th generation factory in Northern Italy, the Dear Frances team has established profound respect and appreciation for the techniques and craftsmanship involved in traditional Italian shoe production. With a strong emphasis on producing shoes that endure and styles that outlive trends, Frances ensures her brand is sourced locally, working with tanneries and heel suppliers in the same town as their factory – helping to reduce unnecessary transportation. “Ethical production begins at the source and we trace our components right back to the raw material. Our suppliers work with small, local farmers, sharing the same social and ethical values as us,” explains Frances. Zeroing in on the use of organic and non-toxic dyes, the company minimizes waste through small run production and decreasing unnecessary transportation by sourcing locally and supporting the artisan trade in Italy. To further support that same belief – in a move towards a circular economy – Dear Frances partners with aligned organizations. One particular organization is Soles4Souls, that helps save lightly worn shoes from piling in landfills and instead distribute to people in need.
Wrapping up, Frances paints a photo of her work-from-home the situation but says though she takes it one day at a time, one item has been helping her manage things more efficiently. “I'm currently reaching for our new season “Driver Loafer” almost every day. The “Driver” is a refined design, in which we used a technical seamless construction to rework the classic loafer with modern accents. I am finding this style so easy to wear indoors, it almost feels like a slipper made for inside and out.” Making accommodations in the middle of a global pandemic, being technologically savvy, Frances showed no alarming signs of distress when conducting our “social distancing” interview via email. Instead, responses relayed a side of understanding. “Very sadly, the global coronavirus pandemic is currently impacting so many lives as we write this. It will no doubt change our world forever,” says Frances. With MSNBC on a nearby television screen in a make-shift work-from-home office, the reality set in again. Like so many others during this time, Frances adds, “everyone is riding this wave of uncertainty and hoping that together we will emerge from this crisis stronger and with a more united world.” As a small business, Dear Frances continues to be reminded of the support, encouragement, and loyalty of its global customers. Their reestablished focus – for now – is to inspire, uplift and accommodate customers and communities as they work their way through this unprecedented time together.
